Display Stands - Aalphabet City

Display Stands

    This is a very simple project. These stands were originally designed for artists wishing to display a whole variety of paper crafts. They are equally capable of holding any relatively small item such as jewelry, small prints or photographs, and books.

    The tools required and the building skills needed are very basic - nearly every artist and craftsperson has done something similar in their chosen area. And my best suggestion is; if you are building these for a group - get together and make it a day project. You can do this.

    Get together and plan out how many stands you need, or would like to have handy. Make a materials list just as any project you have in mind - before you go down to the lumber store.

    Lets begin by examining the frame itself. I will use a 2' x 4' frame for example here. This is a size that is extremely useful and you can generally find all the pieces you need in 4 foot lengths ( or multiples ) and allows for easy division to smaller sizes too.

    It is nothing more that four pieces of wood that is generally available at most lumber stores and 'home' stores. The wood itself is a 1x1, that is 1 inch by 1 inch. Ask the lumberman for an inexpensive hardwood, such as Alder, instead of any softwood such as Pine ( though softwoods will work too, if that is all you can get ).

    The wood you actually get may measure a true 1 inch by 1 inch if the store carries it in that exact size or prepares it for you ( in store cutting will cost a little bit more unless you are buying a lot of wood ). You also want to make sure it is S4S ( Sanded 4 Sides ) so that you have as little preparation to do as is possible. If the store carries a stock of 1x1 material, chances are that it will be a little bit shorter in one measurement than the other. All you have to do is make sure you use all the pieces of wood laid down with the same measurements. ( I generally use 1" as my project thickness, and the smaller dimension is basically meaningless. )

    You will notice the cross pieces will need to be cut a little bit shorter to complete the simple frame. On a 2' x 4' frame the sides will use a full 48 inch piece for each side ( lay them in place on your 'face' material - coming up ) and measure the distance between them to find out the length for the cross pieces. For out basic 2' x 4' frame this will be 22 inches if the material is truly 1" x 1" - a little more if the material is not exactly square.

    Now let's move on to the 'face' material. This is just a 'hardboard' or 'Masonite' material. ( keep both terms in mind when shopping ) Very often available in pre-cut 2' x 4' pieces in most lumber or home stores. I have always been able to find it available pre-cut in this size.

    You may find this as 'tempered' hardboard or just hardboard. The tempered was made a bit stronger in the past - but marketing may have taken over - see what is available ... then choose. It generally comes with holes ( perforated hardboard / Masonite ), or as a smooth sheet. For our purposes the perforated sheet is preferred. One side will be hard and sounds it when tapped with a fingernail ( the 'face' side ), and the back side is rough and is a slightly lighter color.

    I find the natural dark brown color is sufficient for most displays - especially of paper crafts. It ranges from a medium-dark brown to quite dark and sets off the paper items nicely. You can paint it if you like. I would spray it if I were going to paint it - but laying it flat and using a household roller is perfectly acceptable too. ( don't clog up the holes with a thick paint )

    This material is often available in a few thichnesses - 1/8" and 1/4" are the most common. I'd use 1/4" for full 2' x 4' frames as it adds strength. 1/8" is sufficient for smaller frames. If you can only find 3/16" - so be it.
    Here we have the basic frame and face material. You see that it is extremely simple. You can lay the face material down and hot-glue the wood to the back of it. ( do the 4' sides first, then get your cross measurement before you cut the cross pieces, then glue them on ) BUT ... build it with screws if you can.

    Take that extra step to put it together with screws. You will need a drill and a screwdriver to do this - but it will make them easier and more versatile in the long run. Any household power drill should do fine. If you are using a hardwood for your frame - you must drill little holes for the screws before assembly. If you don't you will split the wood when you insert the screws.

    You will need screws to do this project. Generally a #6, #8 or #10 will be fine - just see what is common in the store you choose and buy enough so you can complete the project with all the same size. You will need a screwdriver that matches the style of screw you have chosen too.

    The image to the left shows a "Phillips" head screw ( the cross image ) and the image to the right shows a typical screw with just a slot. Either is fine - but the Phillips offers a little better 'bite' when putting it in. Get a proper sized screwdriver for the screw you've chosen and you will be much happier and the work will be easier too.

    Notice the taper on the screw shown at right. That is a 'countersunk' screw. Using this will allow you to keep the surface of the display completely flat. ( you can use a little paint on them too, to make them match the surface you like ).

    The big image just above is of a drill that you can buy that will make the proper size hole and the taper for the countersink at the same time. The drill will generally have a 1/4" shaft of some length a drill 'point' to drill through the face material and a wider area that tapers to cut the recess for the screw head.

    The last thing you need is a standard drill 'bit' that is correct for the size screw you've chosen. This is to drill the small hole in the hardwood pieces. Ask the store to sell you one when you buy the screws. OR ... if you have a little drill bit set at home pick one that is the size of the shaft of the screw ( that middle section that is smaller than the threads ). This make a hole smaller than the screws appears to be so the threads can still bite into the wood hold tight.
    Once you have all your materials assembled, you can layout the project. It will go fast now. Put a screw near each end of each piece of the frame ( eight screws ) to fasten the face to the frame, and for a 4' side put one in the middle too. You should actually fasten the frame together at the corners too - by getting some longer screws ( 1 1/2" or so ) to reach through the frame pieces and into the cross piece of the frame.

    This just seems complicated ... if you have not done it before. It is really easy once you get through it the first time. And once you've done it - you can then make many different styles for all your needs.

    Now that the basic frame is done you can move on to double sides and different sizes. Let's look at making the exact same frame - twice, and fastening them back-to-back for an A-frame display. This is one of the most effective displays, and is easy to transport, set up, and take down. Shown is one option of setting two or more side-by-side for an inexpensive impressive display area.

    You will need hinges to accomplish this easily. Buy them about 1" x 3" ( 2" x 3" total when open ) and in either brass, brass color, or aluminum as you like. If you are careful, you can get these with screw holes the same size as you've chosen for the rest of the project. This will make your work easier, and your tool purchases fewer, and less money spent too. Planning offsets money anyday.

    If your store carries hinges with a 'removeable hinge pin' ( rod down the center of the hinge, shown black for clarity ) - get those. Using these will allow you to easily take an A-frame display apart for use as two flat displays again. Next - if you take care with your layout spacing you can put hinges on the sides too. This will allow you to fasten the same two standard frames together for a side-to-side display. This also expands the possibilities for effective use of often quite limited space that is alloted in booths, flea markets, and art markets. Hmmm - Sunday on the Beach comes to mind.

    Here is a display that makes use of any number of our standard frames fastened side-by-side. You can even ( with planning ) make them into a square or five-sided enclosure for a tremendous amount of extra space ( with storage space inside too ). These remain easily transported and set up too.

    Notice the construction on this display is exactly the same as above - with the addition of a 1 or 2 foot set of 'legs' made of the same size wood. These are made separately so as to keep the original frame usable as is. They are attached easily when desired. If you add a 1 foot 'base' you can retain the open air feeling of an outdoor booth while elevating the display off the floor. If you add 2 feet to the height you can create a more intimate closed in space or create a wall or tunnel feeling.

    This is one hint of what can be done by creating several frames of varying sizes as you like. This one is six 1 foot wide x 2 foot tall panels - made the very same way, of the very same materials. It is a good use of a single table against a wall, or when standing behind it. This can increase your display space to nearly twice that of the table alone - and uses only about 4 inches along the back edge. You might use a 'C-clamp' on the back crosspiece to anchor them to the table or they will likely fall over when buyers come in for a closer look at all your beautiful works.

    With various frame sizes and careful layout you can maximize the display space of any shape area you are assigned. These can make any space usable - from that completely open spot, to one in the corner with two walls, with space for visitors to walk around the displays, or simply along the outside of the space.

    Make small 1' x 2' A-frames for use on top of a table, lay them down to create a v-shape ( inside v or outside ) on the same table - to fit if you are sitting or standing. Use the full-height A-frames with bases for the interior of a booth, and separate them for use leaning against a wall.

    Your investment will pay for itself many times over in their lifetime. And of course you can glue them together, or have them built, as you desire. I know of one group that had a handy member that built them, and one group that had them built. Consider getting a student to build them ( you buy the materials ) as a shop project for credit at school - contact a teacher.

    I use this same material to build my collapsible table-top drawing boards too. But that's another project.

My apologies, I have not found my original drawings as of yet. I decided to do a few quick drawings and create this page to get your thinking caps dusted. I will post the originals as soon as I can find them. In the meantime, if you have any questions you are welcome to send them along and I will see what I can do to help.